Muscadet was the original House wine of the Glassboat restaurant back in the 80s and we used to sell gallons of the stuff. The restaurant, one of the first on the harbour side, opened when lunches were still de rigueur to the substantial Bristol financial services industry with luncheons often interrupted by financiers shouting into their brick-size mobile phones.
Made from Melon de Bourgogne, near Nantes in the far west of the Loire, the majority of Muscadet is quaffed young and fresh, a perfect accompaniment to a plate of seafood. As the Melon de Bourgogne is a relatively neutral grape many producers seek to add complexity by producing Muscadet sur lie.
Here the wine remains in contact with the residues of fermentation for a number of months prior to bottling, a process which gives the wine a fuller flavour; a creamier, softer texture and can trap a little residual carbon dioxide resulting in a slight sparkle.
For too long the vast majority of Muscadet has been sold on quantity via négociants concerned mainly with price and a view to consumption as young as possible, which inevitably results in the image of the wine suffering. Independent vignerons are however working hard to improve the reputation of the area and it is undoubtedly the case that Muscadet when carefully vinified from older vines in established vineyards is very capable of aging gracefully due to its high acidity and minerality.
The current emphasis in the area is on a further delimitation of the better vineyards and to further extend the period of lees-aging which paradoxically can result in the wine not being allowed to list ‘sur-lie´on its bottle due to the complexities of French wine laws.
Perhaps Muscadet never really went out of fashion, but as wines from more revered regions continue to rise in price, reputable producers from this area of the Loire offer a more realistic opportunity for tasting the development of a wine in bottle over a number of years or even decades.
Muscadets from 3 different decades are currently available on the list at the Glassboat.
In honour of our original house wine, we are offering a complimentary glass of Muscadet per person for all lower deck bookings in 2012 until the end of February.